"Orientalism is a central factor within the fashion system, both subtle and overt. In this timely and groundbreaking book, the author shows the extent of the influence that the Orient had, and continues to have, on fashion. Our concept of Western fashion is unthinkable without it, whether in terms of the growth of the cotton industry or of garments we take for granted, such as the dressing gown. From pre-modern to contemporary times, this book demonstrates that, in the realms of fashion, the Orient is not simply a construction or a fascination of the imperial West with its eastern-other. Rather, it reveals the extent of cross-pollination, exchange and multiple translation that has taken place between East and West over the last 500 years. Exploring topics including Chinoiserie, masquerade, bohemianism, Japonisme, the "de-Orientalization" of the Orient, perfume and the birth of couture, Fashion and Orientalism is an essential read for students and scholars of fashion, cultural studies and history"--P. [4] of cover.
Review: For historians who are interested in dress and textiles, but who want to focus more on general ideas and the dynamics of world trade than the actual garments and materials. TRC Fashion and Orientalism is an important book that enhances our historical knowledge and intellectual understanding of its subject. Through detailed description and analysis, Adam Geczy contributes to the growing scholarship that seeks a more subtle understanding of the complex discourse of Orientalism and the conscious and unconscious ways that it has had an impact on Western fashion and dress. -- Hazel Clark, Research Chair of Fashion, Parsons the New School for Design, New York, USA
Geczy opens our eyes to an understanding of fashion as an exchange of values between Asia and the West for the past 500 years. This timely, patiently researched, brilliantly written book will become the standard reference for the field and a must-read for anyone interested in the intersections of cultural studies, art history and philosophy. -- Melissa Chiu, Director, Asia Society Museum, New York, USA
The breadth of Orientalism in this book gives it the ability to bring readers up with a start as they recognize elements from their own lives. -- Michael Carter, author of Fashion Classics from Carlyle to Barthes. (Verlagstext)
AUS DEM INHALT:
Introduction | 1
1 Early Orientalism and the Barbaresque | 15
Luxury Textiles and the Beginnings of the Silk Trade | 17
Venice | 21
Textiles in Western Europe | 24
Cotton and Chintz | 25
Charles II and the Origins of the Vest | 31
Chinoiserie and Orientalism in Louis XIV's France | 34
Lachinage and the Visit of the Siamese Ambassadors in France | 37
2 1690-1815: Chinoiserie, Indiennerie, Turquerie and Egyptomania | 41
Textiles | 44
Banyans and Fans | 48
Chinoiserie Design and Art | 57
Masquerade | 59
Theatre and Music | 61
Institutionalizing Turquerie | 63
Mary Montague and the Special Case of Masquerade | 67
Late-eighteenth Century and the Revolution | 72
Egyptomania | 80
Military Costume and Weaponry | 82
3 1815-1871: Turkophilia, Afromania and the Indes | 85
Bohemianism | 91
Travellers, Adventurers and Exiles | 96
Cashmere Shawls | 100
Paisley | 105
British Orientalist Textiles and Design after 1851 | 106
Arthur Lazenby Liberty | 108
Other Women's Fashions before Couture | 110
4 1868-1944: The Japoniste Revolution, the Deorientalizing of the Orient and the Birth of Couture | 114
Japonism and Kimono | 116
Deorientalizing Japan | 124
Deorientalizing Turkey | 129
Couture, Art and Coustume: From Poiret to the Ballets Russes | 136
Paquin | 147
Fortuny | 148
The Interwar Years: The Orient in Early Film | 150
5 1944-2011: Postwar Revivalism and Transorientalism | 154
Hippies and Counterculture in the 1960s and 1970s | 159
Perfume | 164
The New Japanese Revolution in French Couture | 168
Postomodern and Contemporary Couture | 174
Reorienting and Self-orientalizing the Orient | 182
The Burqa Wars | 190
Conclusion: The Revenge of China | 197
Notes | 201
Bibliography | 227
Index | 241