Celebrated and hidden figures from First Lady Mary Todd Lincoln's seamstress to Elsa Schiaparelli and Chromat revealed through their stories and most compelling works.
Diane Von Furstenberg, Vivienne Westwood, Sarah Burton, Kate and Laura Mulleavy, Donna Karan, and Iris van Herpen are among the great women designers to emerge in the last few decades. We now live in an age when no one would dare call them "that little seamstress," as Paul Poiret disdainfully referred to Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel more than a century ago. The Women Who Revolutionized Fashion highlights early innovative and contemporary designers working in a variety of materials and genres. This unique volume profiles widely-known early fashion vanguards such as Jeanne Lanvin, Callot Soeurs, and Madeleine Vionnet, as well as underrepresented women who revolutionized fashion from the mid-1700s to the present. More than one hundred works--including street fashion, ready-to-wear, traditional, and haute couture--celebrate women designers' concepts of dress and beauty. Through the work of more than fifty individual style makers, The Women Who Revolutionized Fashion illuminates issues of representation, creativity, and distinctiveness, as well as the labor challenges surrounding fashion today. (Verlagstext)
Aus dem Inhalt:
6 Director's Foreword
8 Petra Slinkard: Acknowledgments
9 Rachel Syme: Women Wearing Women
12 Madelief Hohé: Altering the Pattern - Changing Times and New Roles in Fashion
20 Petra Slinkard : At the Cutting Edge - American Fashion as Catalyst for Change
28 Petra Slinkard, Paula B. Richter, and Lan Morgan : The Women Who Revolutionized Fashion
30 Elizabeth Keckley
32 Maria Theresa Baldwin Hollander
34 Maria Monaci Gallenga
36 Lucy Duff Gordon
38 Gabrielle Chanel
42 Jeanne Paquin / Callot Soeurs
44 Mies van Os
46 Jeanne Adele Bernard Sacerdote
48 Madeleine Vionnet
50 Madame Gres / Jeanne Lanvin
54 Adele Simpson
56 Lucille Manguin / Margaret
57 Maggy Rouff
60 Hattie Carnegie / Sally Milgrim
62 Valentina
63 Elizabeth Hawes
64 Eisa Schiaparelli
66 Dahava Kreisberg-Krochmal / Nina Ricci / Marie-Louise Carven
68 Ann Lowe
69 Tina Leser
70 Rose Marie Reid / Carolyn Schnurer
72 Bonnie Cashin
74 Claire McCardell
75 Pauline Trigère
76 Faize Kuhar/ Sevim Baban
78 Mary Quant
80 Emmy van Leersum / Brian P. Kennedy Marianne David / Alice Edeling
82 Armi Ratia / Vuokko Eskolin-Nurmesniemi
84 Diane von Furstenberg
86 Sonia Rykiel
88 Frankie Welch
89 Alice Pollock
90 JacquelineJacobson
92 Laura Ashley
93 Lily Henket-Conemans
94 Zandra Rhodes
96 Jean Muir
97 Anne-Marie Beretta
98 Hanae Mori
100 Celine Vipiana
101 Donna Karan
102 Vivienne Westwood
106 Norma Kamali
108 Ann Demeulemeester
109 Marielle Bolier
110 Vivienne Tam
112 Betsey Johnson
114 Miuccia Prada
115 Mada van Gaans
116 Phoebe Philo
118 Kate Mulleavy/ Laura Mulleavy
120 Isabel Toledo
122 Carolina Herrera
124 Rei Kawakubo
128 Natalie Chanin
130 Maria Grazia Chiuri
132 Mary-Kate Olsen / Ashley Olsen
134 Stella McCartney
136 Mary Katrantzou
137 Clare Waight Keller
138 Iris van Herpen
142 Kathleen Kye
144 Jamie Okuma
146 Becca McCharen-Tran
148 Carla Fernandez
150 Katharine Hamnett
151 Tracy Reese
152 Selected Bibliography
158 Index of Designers and Houses
159 Photo Credits
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Verfasser*innenangabe:
edited by Petra Slinkard with contributions by Madelief Hohé, Lan Morgan, Paula B. Richter, Petra Slinkard, and Rachel Syme ; Peabody Essex Museum in collaboration with Kunstmuseum Den Haag
Jahr:
2020
Verlag:
New York, Rizzoli Electa
Aufsätze:
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Systematik:
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VW.QS, FS.E
ISBN:
978-0-8478-6822-3
2. ISBN:
0-8478-6822-2
Beschreibung:
159 Seiten : Illustrationen
Schlagwörter:
Geschichte 1820-2015, Modeschöpferin, Design, Frau, Mode, Erwachsene Frau, Formgebung <Design>, Frauen, Kleidermode, Weib, Weibliche Erwachsene
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Sprache:
Englisch
Fußnote:
Impresssum: This book is published on the occasion of the exhibition 'Made It: The Women Who Revolutionized Fashion' presented by the Peabody Essex Museum, Salem, Massachusetts, on view from May 16 to September 7, 2020. The Kunstmuseum Den Haag organized the original exhibition with curator Madelief Hohé under the title 'Femmes Fatales: Strong Women in Fashion'
Mediengruppe:
Buch