This new edition of a bestselling textbook is designed for students, scholars, and anyone interested in contemporary fashion. The book brings together the key writings on the subject, covering the history, culture, and business of fashion. The essays are drawn from a wide range of sources - books, professional and academic journals, magazines, interviews, and exhibition catalogues. Each section is specially introduced and concludes with guides to further reading. The new edition has been entirely revised and expanded: there are new sections on psychology, ethnicity, design and manufacture, marketing and merchandising, and sustainability; several new essays have been specially written for the reader; the range of illustrations has been increased. In its second edition, The Fashion Reader is the ideal introductory text for all students of fashion.
Review: Historically informed and critically integrated, The Fashion Reader sheds fresh light on key concepts in fashion studies: time, space/place, identity, and globalization. Susan Kaiser, University of California at Davis (from 1st edition) A panoramic collection of current and classic texts and an excellent introduction to fashion ... from history, cultural identity, gender, through to the business, economics, manufacturing and marketing of fashion. Pammi Sinha, University of Manchester (from 1st edition) Presenting rich, diverse, and significant essays, The Fashion Reader will contribute to and expand the study of fashion. Theresa M. Winge, Indiana University (from 1st edition) An invaluable resource that covers Fashion Studies' range of disciplines and approaches, The Fashion Reader will invigorate the growing field of fashion. Patrik Aspers, Stockholm University (from 1st edition) This is a useful starting point that demonstrates the richness of the subject, indicates the diverse themes to be explored, and the variety of approaches it is possible to take in examining both contemporary and historical fashion. Costume, Vol 42, 2008 (from 1st edition) This wide-ranging volume engages with issues of fashion, broadly conceived, from the historical through the theoretical to politics and business. -- Beverly Lemire, University of Alberta Winterthur Portfolio
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Part I: A Brief History of Fashion
Introduction - Linda Welters 3
1From Prehistory through Byzantium - Abby Lillethun 7
2Europe to 1700 - Linda Welters 21
3From Baroque Elegance to the French Revolution: 1700-1790 - Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell 37
4From Neoclassicism to the Industrial Revolution: 1790-1860 - Susan North 53
5The Victorian and Edwardian Eras: 1860-1910 - Cynthia Cooper 69
6The Modern Era: 1910-1960 - Tiffany Webber 84
7The Postmodern Age: 1960-2010 - Jos Blanco F99
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part I 112
Part II: Fashion Theory
Introduction - Abby Lillethun 117
8Dress as an Expression of the Pecuniary Culture - Thorstein Veblen 125
9The Power of Fashion - Kurt Lang and Gladys Engel Lang 128
10Written Clothing - Roland Barthes 132
11The Fashion System - Grant McCracken 135
12The Dressed Body - Joanne Entwistle 138
13Re-Orienting Fashion Theory - Sandra Niessen 150
14Fashion at the Edge - Caroline Evans 156
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part II 163
Part III: Psychology of Fashion
Introduction - Abby Lillethun 167
15The Fundamental Motives - JCFlugel 169
16To the Fashion Industry as Represented by the British Fashion Council - Janet Treasure et al174
17Hearts and Masks - David Muggleton 176
18Shopping Addiction: Is Shopping Costing More Than Money? - Marilyn Clark and Kirsten Salerno 180
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part III 185
Part IV: Fashion and Identity
Introduction - Abby Lillethun 189
19Is it a Girl or a Boy? Gender Identity and Children's Clothing - Colleen RCallahan and Jo BPaoletti 193
20Sentimental Culture and the Problem of Fashion - Karen Halttunen 197
21Men and Women: Dressing the Part - Jo BPaoletti and Claudia Brush Kidwell 202
22The Zoot Suit and Style Warfare - Stuart Cosgrove 205
23Invisible Men? - Shaun Cole 216
24Subculture: The Unnatural Break - Dick Hebdige 222
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part IV 229
Part V: Fashion: Space and Place
Introduction - Linda Welters 233
25World Cities of Fashion - David Gilbert 237
26Popularizing Fashion in Melbourne, Australia - Sally Weller 243
27Fashion Blogs - Sarah Moore 250
28Globalization Reconsidered: The Historical Geography of Modern Western Male Attire - Wilbur Zelinsky 254
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part V 262
Part VI: Ethnicity, Culture and Dress
Introduction - Abby Lillethun 265
29The Highlander Myth - Hugh Trevor-Roper 267
30The Veil in Their Minds and on Our Heads: Veiling Practices and Muslim Women - Homa Hoodfar 275
31Guayaberismo and the Essence of Cool - Marilyn Miller 279
32Youth Cosmopolitanism: Clothing, the City and Globalization in Dakar, Senegal - Suzanne Scheld 283
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part VI 288
Part VII: Politics of Fashion
Introduction - Abby Lillethun 291
33Failed Censures: Ecclesiastical Regulation of Women's Clothing in Late Medieval Italy - Thomas MIzbicki 295
34The Calico Campaign: Prohibition of East Indian Cottons - Beverly Lemire 298
35Trade Policies - Arthur CMead 302
36Finding the Moral Fiber: Why Reform is Urgently Needed for a Fair Cotton Trade - Oxfam Briefing Paper 310
37Sweatshop: A First Edition - Robert JSRoss 313
38Not Only Nike's Doing It: "Sweating" and the Contemporary Labor Market - Richard McIntyre and Yngve Ramstad 317
39Feminism and Fashion - Elizabeth Wilson 323
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part VII 332
Part VIII: Fashion and the Body
Introduction - Abby Lillethun 335
40Corsets in Vogue - Valerie Steele 339
41Nap Time: Historicizing the Afro - Robin DGKelley 342
42"Material Girl": Madonna as Postmodern Heroine - Susan Bordo 349
43The Slimming of Yvonne Blue - Joan Jacobs Brumberg 354
44Fashioning the Body Today - Susan JVincent 358
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part VIII 362
Part IX: Fashion and Art
Introduction - Linda Welters 365
45Art and Fashion - Michael Boodro 369
46Fashion Rendering - Richard Martin 374
47On the Marked Change in Fashion Photography - Olivier Zahm 376
48Viktor & Rolf - Andrew Bolton 383
49Shed, Cathedral or Museum? - Chantal Béret 385
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part IX 390
Part X: Fashion, Media and Communication
Introduction - Linda Welters 395
50Fashion on the Page - Christopher Breward 399
51Supermodels and Super Bodies - Jennifer Craik 403
52Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis - Kathleen Craughwell-Varda 408
53Hot Couture: Brigitte Bardot's Fashion Revolution - Ginette Vincendeau 414
54Sex and the City in the British Fashion Press - Anna König 420
55Hip Hop - Tricia Rose 423
56Selling Culture: Bloomingdale's, Diana Vreeland, and the New Aristocracy of Taste in Reagan's America - Debora Silverman 426
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part X 429
Part XI: From Haute Couture to the Street
Introduction - Linda Welters 433
57When Worth Was King - Anne Hollander 437
58The Dressmaking World - Thérèse Bonney and Louise Bonney 443
59Torontonian Taste in Couture - Alexandra Palmer 447
60Trickle Down, Bubble Up - Ted Polhemus 451
61Secondhand Dresses and the Role of the Ragmarket - Angela McRobbie 456
62Punks and Pirates: The Costiff Collection of Vivienne Westwood - Sonnet Stanfill 463
63Japanese Street Fashion: The Urge To Be Seen and To Be Heard - Yuniya Kawamura 467
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XI 470
Part XII: Design and Manufacture
Introduction - Linda Welters 473
64Inside Design-A Look at the Method Behind the Madness - Katy Chapman 477
65Fashion Sorceress - Linda Tischler 483
66The Diary of a Dress: Alexander McQueen Shares the Saga of How One of His Inspirations-A Peter Arnold Orchid Photograph-Evolved from Simple Sketch to Production Nightmare to a Stunning Gown Fit for Supermodel Naomi Campbell - Lisa Armstrong 487
67Born in the USA: The Growing Premium-Denim Market Goes Global - Julia Fein Azoulay 490
68It's in the Bag - Dana Thomas 495
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XII 500
Part XIII: Marketing and Merchandising
Introduction - Linda Welters 503
69Business Sense: It Takes a Lot More than Individual Flair to Stay at the Top - John Andrews 505
70Return to Clubland - Mark Tungate 509
71New Luxury - Dana Thomas 511
72American Apparel - Rob Walker 514
73Dorothy Shaver: Promoter of "The American Look" - Tiffany Webber-Hanchett 520
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XIII 526
Part XIV: The Fashion Business and Global Economics
Introduction - Abby Lillethun 529
74What Happened to Fashion? - Teri Agins 531
75The Islamic Factor - Nicholas Coleridge 536
76Zara: The Business Model for Fast Fashion - Teresa MMcCarthy 541
77Four Models of Fashion Relationships - Simona Segre Reinach 547
78Fashion in India - Vandana Bhandari 551
79Made in China - Arthur CMead 556
80"Two for a Penny" - Pietra Rivoli 564
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XIV 569
Part XV: Sustainability and Fashion
Introduction - Linda Welters 573
81Fiber Sustainability: Green is Not Black + White - Martin Bide 577
82Weaving a New Future - Julian MAllwood, Sören Ellebok Laursen, Cecilia Malvido De Rodriguez and Nancy MBocken 582
83Digital and Democratic - Sarah Scaturro 586
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XV 589
Part XVI: Future of Fashion
Introduction - Linda Welters 593
84The Evolution of the Chicago Fashion Initiative - Melissa Gamble 597
85Born to Buy - Juliet BSchor 600
86Aging and Demographics: Implications for the Fashion Industry - Claire Lacoste-Kapstein 603
87Luxury Fashion Branding - Uche Okonkwo 607
88Wearable Technology - Lucy EDunne 613
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XVI 617
Bibliography 619
Index 655